Sunday, June 28, 2009

What is the Best Way To Fully Strip Elastomeric Paint off Block?

What is the Best Way To Fully Strip Elastomeric Paint off Block?
What is the best way to fully strip elastomeric paint off exterior block building in preperation for Acrylic Paint and Primer.
In the many years as a coating specialist . Very rarely has this come up but a very good question . IF the coating was applied improperly an procedures to prepare the surface for proper bonding was skipped there is a good chance there is going to be spots of failing areas dramatically peeling areas coming off in sheets bulges bubbles etc. quite unsightly an a serious mess . providing a habitat for leakage into the interior a great breeding zone for mold an mildew even mosquitoes due to some serious bubbles can contain quite a bit of water . ant also love these areas to provide a breeding room incubation area due to trapped heat an also many small plant seeds can rest in pockets an actually begin growing I personally have seen quite a bit . To alleviate such several things can be done actual hands on scraping can remove quite a bit it does tend to peel in sheets . get underneath an area an actually pull it off by hand if this tends to be way to much effort . Then pressure cleaning can be a great access to underneath an in reality it is recommended to really prepare the block for future priming an painting . A contrast in a situation where as there could possibly be a serious issue of water invasion into the wall an damage that could occur to valuable infrastructure properties where as an estate building of relative age an deterioration whereas interior plaster id deteriorated from exterior cracks etc. or possibly destroying an antique wood floor due to real serious leakage is a issue then Sand blasting would be the necessity and most idea situation . typically involving sand rather than water the intrusive issue of damage an water invasion is skipped over whereas sand is an issue in itself silica is severely deadly without proper breathing apparatus . it will overcome your breath within minutes an can cause serious damage to your lungs forever . also gets into your eyes an if you happen to get in the way of the nozzle it will pierce skin immediately sand also gets everywhere and etches glass . proper breathing apparatus is a necessity an not just a typical cheapo dust mask . a set of goggles and gas mask or a full style gas mask is recommended if a hooded fresh air set up is not available also a heavy coat or shield to protect your body and reality wear proper safety gloves high pressure sand blasting is serious stuff it literally explodes the surface paint coating etc. and can bounce back an cut uncovered skin . also creating dust clouds that are severely dangerous . proper safety areas must be roped or coned off warning sign must be placed out an a distance of usually 50 ft should be a typical separation from the actual work area where as common public wont be overcome by dust n debris . IT IS A SERIOUS ISSUE. And not to be taken lightly silicosis is forever . Sand blasting machines can be rented sand can be purchased through such suppliers by the pallet . I personally have gone through tons an tons of sand is the reason of my seriousness an relative safety experience. Typically though it is a way to strip off entirely all previous coating priming painting issues involved in all applications . concrete steel cement block brick etc. window an certain fragile areas such as glass electrical wiring can be separated and protected with a simple layer of duct tape. where a break line is involved a sheet of steel can be a useful shield . Metal paint spray shields can be found at paint retailers or supply houses w/t hand grips etc. waste sand and paint particles can be swept up vacuumed away blown away from work area . some construction sites it typically just becomes part of the landscape an is a natural environment certain issues may be discussed in advance before even beginning work related to sand blasting . proper restructuring of other contractor and personnel may be an issue and an advisement of rescheduling. due to the severity issue of dust and debris . Take my advice with a degree of seriousness and you will be fine . GOOD LUCK . Any other question if necessary your more than welcome to contact me on such issues . Cheers : Dirtdog

Monday, June 15, 2009

A question of - Is painting three walls one color, lets say dark blue, and the forth wall an off white, still in style ?

A question of - Is painting three walls one color, lets say dark blue, and the forth wall an off white, still in style ?

Answer -
The reality is that if it is what you wish it to be than so be it that .

As to being in style ?

The reality of class , culture an style rarely go out of focal point clarification .

If you are so concerned as if it is not right reverse it to the other color having a defining blue wall or two corresponding colors separate by the white as in the north n south wall blue .

The main judge is the effect of focal point in the room .

The blue will always direct your focal point of interest as to the white will disappear in the grandeur of the effect of the blue walls.

One note if the corner piece is the most effective focal you wish it to be then paint those two walls blue .

I hope my answer has helped a bit more in your thoughts .

live, love, enjoy life - never falter over expense or lighting you are the one who lives with it an looks at it forever till it changes .

Color is an expression of character personality an the effect of the variable .

The comfort is the reality of the fine line the trim the edge of the variable .

How the setting an placement of the objects in which decorates the space all guide the eyes in so many ways as one walks into the room.

Sunday, June 7, 2009


Can a formica counter top in a bathroon be painted and if yes, how?
Yes it can .
Theres a paint product called xim primer .

It can be tinted an slightly thinned follow directions properly.

use a quality brush due to xim drys very very quickly an due to paint drag will remove bristles from a cheap throw away brush .

First clean the counter sand lightly , just scruff it up a bit reclean off sanding dust do your edges and back splash first , cut in the edge against the back splash and around your sink .

Try to use full strokes away from sink to edges by the time you get the edges done an back splash you will get an understanding of its tacky drying time .

Follow through with the flow of paint continuous strokes don't stop in the middle of your work your paint line drys very very fast an becomes tacky quickly .

It is the most difficult to master full effect strokes but you'll get the understanding in the back splash an edges as you go .

get your first primer coat on an let sit n dry completely this primer can be sanded after a full dry . usually an hour or two ....

repeat read directions fully dust off sanding dust an repeat if first full coat of primer didn't cover completely.

Re sand an dust after drying fully an apply your finish coat of xim a 3rd coat will lay out well an with more ease than the first two.

good luck with it .

heres a link to help more with photos of the product an more details
400W ES White: Product Number 1144
heres a link :
and another helpful link :
Good luck hope this helps if you would like to see this in my original blog an other painting tips look here :
Thanks for the question .
Have a great day n good luck : dirtdog

Saturday, June 6, 2009


Old Paint...
When we purchased our townhouse 15 years ago in Miami, the previous owners were kind enough and made a point of showing us several jars (mayonaise, jelly, Ragu etc.) of paint that matched various parts of the household. It's unknown how old they were 15 years ago. But they were well sealed and labeled.
So, in this economy, why buy new when used could be as good? Besides, I don't need a gallon nor even a pint with some applications.
Pitfalls of using 15+ year old paint ranging from flat to satin to glossy for door jams???


As long as the paint was sealed well an not deteriorated through it should be just fine for touch up although the paint on the walls could have aged and lost its color value a bit via sun bleached an also depending on if there ever was a smoker in the house or excessive cooking but if its a light color an not a dark color it should be just fine . just remember to shake well an pour out what you think you might use add a little water not very much an ounce of water to a half of a quart , will do . use a clean sponge or a small brush . I recommend a sponge on the flat surfaces even if it takes several blotches to cover after the first dries so much easier to blend a flat with blotches than strokes , with the satin the same clean sponge but i recommend a bit more water due to a full effect satin will over shine if not thinned out a bit satins are the most difficult especially in highly reflective area's tend to be much more noticeable where touched up. if its a small mark try to cover only the mark itself the smaller the touch up the less noticeable . where a rub that tends to bring up a reflection on satin small variable blotches over and around will fade it away some try not to do it all at once with the satin a thinned material will dry quickly so proceed through your touch ups an then look back an aplly another blotch or a few more if necessary . one other point sometimes a mark on the wall could be cleaned off using a clean white rag an water an old t shirt is perfect . never used windex on paint it will remove latex or damage the color. as for the gloss a lot of times it can be cleaned off easily always try to clean it a bit before trying to paint gloss same step just a clean white rag an just water oily finger print can be a messy situation though with water a drop of a light colored dish washing liquid also does wonders on cleaning the dirt or oily finger prints being it is water soluble it will lift the grease without damaging the glossy surfaces wipe off soap residue with a clean white damp cloth . before trying to touch up if cleaning didn't prove enough to rid the marks .
Now as to glossy surfaces that have been brushes such as door frames an trim or door panels etc . touch up areas tend to over shine with a much brighter shiny area it is recommended to at least try to paint the entire length of the piece following the same direction of brush strokes if your touch up tends to over shine in spots then wait to dry an just paint the entire piece complete . nicked edges can be touched up with just a drop or blotch just to the edge it may take several blotches multiple times to cover severely damaged dings an exposed wood several times always is much better than trying to cover entirely with a thick one time brushed coat glosses tend to drip or run as it is described a little goes a long way but tend not to cover dark marks easiliy so if the mark is still seen after the first coat just wait for it to dry an reapply a second an third coat as necessary . clean your brush between drying times or leave bristles in the paint or your brush may dry just as quickly as the paint does an be useless . remember even what they call cheap throw away brushes can be cleaned an reused several times especially in touch up effects . take your time enjoy what your doing don't make it a laborious job it should be easy , just be patient an allow each coat to dry effectively survey your work an apply a second coat to what is necessary . redeposit the unused paint back into whatever container you started with or if you have a new jar or smaller appropriate sized container transfer the contents to that container to keep a fresher useable container . baby food jar what ever that fit the needs of the remaining paint after all most paint will last for many many years if properly sealed I have seen entirely rusted over cans of paint a total wreck but when opened the interior of the can was pristine an the paint was perfectly clean an useable . good luck in your endeavors