Tuesday, September 8, 2009

A QUESTION OF CROWN MOULDING to Short ceilings and a refrence to painting instead to reduce dark cave effect

Short ceilings, dark wood throughout - is crown molding the answer?

We have 8 foot ceilings, dark wood trim and wondering if crown molding will help or hurt the resale value? There is so much dark wood throughout the house it is like a cave. If we put in crown molding, what would be a good width size to put up and since everything is dark wood and it is a 30 year old house, would it look strange to put up white crown molding or better to use dark molding or none at all and then use chair railing instead.
Answer :
The cost effective relevance will not help . It might even make the room squattier . thus forth lowering the wall appearance . Applying crown moulding of such in effect is the type of ornamentation for large rooms with high ceilings . 8 ft really isn't that much . With the prices of moulding nailing it up filling in the holes caulking and of course painting etc. will be quite costly . The real point you clairify is dark wood and a cave effect . A cost effective solution to such would be priming and painting the all the dark wood and trimmings . One note by doing just the frames and trimmings first . might help and illuminate the doors darkness although over all reducing the vastness depth and darkness . might be tried first . Remove all the doors plus hardware hunges etc. stick them in one room or the garage . Then tackle the project head on . In painting over a dark wood especially varnished the used of an Oil based primer is best to cover effectively without problems of peeling down the road . The new type acrylic primers will bond but will not produce a top quality easy job they certainly are much harder to deal with in applications . My suggestion is to go with a oil base KILZ "PRODUCT NAME" PRIMER ! Then get a good quality oil based finish paint . Benjamin Moore is by far the very best oil base paint I have ever used and already has all the additives as to brush flow performance in it . Although a quart of penitrol addative is suggested especially for the less professional brush master to help in applying the primer and the paint to reduse brush drag and lengthen the tack up drying time effectively allowing a bit more working time to spread out the paint easier. Whites are the best at blocking out such darkness adding color will reduce you over all depth change but also may contrast the effects of wall colors. heres my blog on painting tips that also may help a bit > http://paintingtips-dirtdog.blogspot.com/ After painting all the trim and door frames try bringing out a door putting it in place to get an over all view as to the effect . If then it is still noticeably to dark then by all means paint the doors too.

Sunday, August 30, 2009

A tip to excessive electricity cost an a painting story

In a coversation this was a tip given about the ultra high electric costs an eliminating excessive wastes in electric bills due to airconditioning and the reality of how much heat a roof is exposed to and absorbes ...
the conversation started out like this .

My goodness that seems an awful lot to remove an install a part it must be the AC compressor itself ?
in which yeah I could understand such .
It seems these day's especially things such as that are higher an higher in price costs an maintenance issues .
but I am glad your getting it fixed though .
hopefully your electric bill will go down a bit from now on .
that's seems excessively high .
our house is 1250 sq ft enclosed area an as I stated before I have no garage . although I occupy one of three bedrooms I seal off the other two rooms plus keep closets closed and the drapes and blinds closed . I'll open the exterior doors once in awhile but usually keep them shut when the air on . usually in the evening an night the airs on lowering in at night from 76 to 73 in the morning after letting the dog out we usually opening up the house with the air off till noon at least to refresh the house by then its 78 - 80 in the house n we turn it back on again the only window that still has a drapes but they r spread apart is the kitchen sink window to look out on the brick patio all the rest are mini blinds shut tight in a up position not to let in extra sunlight . although as I do remember seeing you have no shade what so ever . and my house is just about 75 % covered in shade from the trees our electric bill is as I can remember 120 dollars I think its fpl .
but the house I used to have on beach side I do remember 600 dollar electric bills all the time during the summer months augh! it was amazing the difference . now one trick I used there was I had put a sprinkler on the roof it was one of those sweep types it had a upside down v shaped base in all it fit perfectly on the top crest of the roof I had wrapped the hose around one of the toilet exhaust pipes sticking up so that the hose doesn't fall off the roof when I turned on the pressure to it but in a real surprised effect just turning on the water for a few minutes . I had it rigged up just outside the door a valve in the middle of the hose to reach out n turn on the pressure as I said just 2-5 minutes was all several times during the hottest part of the day . usually noon 2 an 4 o'clock as I said just 2-5 minutes each time it was amazing how hot the water was running off the roof it was almost steaming at first an cooled rather quickly in the 2 minute period but even after turning it off it was very apparent the cooling differences inside . my cost of water went up 20 dollars but my cost of electricity went down 200.00 I later installed a water pump out of the ground an a sprinkler system with 4 sprinklers up on the corners of the roof those tick tick tick kind of sprinklers they had 12 ft extentions out of the ground an actually strapped to the very corners extending up about three ft on each side they were in a full circle motion so not only did they water the roof but the yard all the way around the house which created a evaporation effect actually pulling the heat off and around the house as it evaporated there was absolutely no shade at all there .
I set the timer on 5 minute intervals 9 times a day 11 12 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 . now yes the pump costs electricity but not much the water was free pumping it out of the ground an I was fortunate to NOT have sulfur water .
The well cost 400 dollars the pump cost 250 an the pvc pipes sprinklers timer etc. around 250. So lets see that was 900 bucks a lot ya think but in the end my electric bill was 225.00 dollars that's a 375 dollar savings every month during the summer I was absolutely amazed the savings paid for my expenses in a few months an I lived in that same house for ten years with the same system running my electric over the next few months after that was never over 250 an we kept the ac on all the time . Now the next step I took was to apply a very thick ultra white coating type paint over my existing brown shingles similar as yours . It was called polar bear coatings and sealer paint solutions . as I said it was ultra bright white very thick type coatings paint I bought ten 5 gallon buckets they were 50 dollars each so that's 550 dollars with the extra paint rollers and tax. the house roof was 1000 sq ft close or similar to yours I'm not sure of your sq footage . Anyway's I got up on the roof in the end of winter an rolled it over my existing shingles two coats following a downwards direction on the final sweep each time . I rolled it in very well though in both directions actually sealing the shingles together and putting around a quarter inch thick covering after it was completely dry of coating to the entire roof it was so bright white the reflection off it was blinding . also that same roof went through several hurricanes an never not one shingle was lost to where the neighbors on both sides lost an excessive amount of shingle pieces and there roofs leaked after that . my electric bill then went down another 50 dollars a month after that I was using the water sprinkler system too as I spoke of earlier 600.00 electric bills were then anywhere from 150 to 175 after that over the years as I said ten years in the house as I said before the first electric bills were 600 that was 12 years ago . I did that as I described above within the first year occupying the house my last electric bill was 172.00 after ten years of savings not taking account of or considering the raising an cost increases of electricity the saving were completely amazing . another note the roof was recoated once five years later as it began to appear dirty it never lost a shingle and the roof that was already 8 years old before the first coating lasted the entire time an in great condition for an additional ten years . the new owners bought the house an went through extensive remodeling an expansion an replaced the roof some years later . but in all the savings were overwhelming the yard turned beautiful and green and the roof held up with only one re coating after 5 years of the first two coats just for looks really an the extra thickness of the coatings helped I'm sure even more as to additional savings . it was truly amazing the reality in the savings

Sunday, August 16, 2009


Automotive painting help!!!!
When painting an automobile, and you have already sprayed a coat of clearcoat. And there are numerous small shiny dots after wetsanding. If you are afraid of going through the clear , can you spray more clear and block it down to remove the dots?

Firsts answer :
you can recoat it you just need to wetsand again you should have used fisheye solution to help prevent bubling

My Answer :
Yes I agree with the previous answer posted fisheye helps but not always works as it should .
In all the product of today can't really stand up to the past . Of course a totally dust free environment is very very difficult to control .
Plus this new just blast it with color an refine it with clear is no significant match to the old lacquers of yester year .
I paid dearly for a good paintjob on my new mustang gt an thought the factory would do the best which by the way charged the most boy was I wrong dots bubbles an specks unfriggin believable even ripples of over build Clearcoat .
In all I failed to tell them significantly I was a professional painter but it seemed as if some of the amateurs that I fired in the past actually must have painted my car .
In all though todays products just don't quite stand up to the refined eye of observance an detailed quality .
Plus sure you can sand it down an recoat over n over just let it cure out before recoating which I should have pointed that out at first .
Most of the time impatients prevals into a dissatisfied result .
The real culprit could be the wait period was overlooked or pushed to the extreme of down to the very last minute .
Try not to be to hard on yourself an go with the flow of it all quite perfect is a hard thing to achieve .
Even though you may be your own worst critique .
Cheers Dirtdog
I have other tips on painting that can be found here including
this answer . > http://paintingtips-dirtdog.blogspot.com/
Good luck Dirtdog

Sunday, June 28, 2009

What is the Best Way To Fully Strip Elastomeric Paint off Block?

What is the Best Way To Fully Strip Elastomeric Paint off Block?
What is the best way to fully strip elastomeric paint off exterior block building in preperation for Acrylic Paint and Primer.
In the many years as a coating specialist . Very rarely has this come up but a very good question . IF the coating was applied improperly an procedures to prepare the surface for proper bonding was skipped there is a good chance there is going to be spots of failing areas dramatically peeling areas coming off in sheets bulges bubbles etc. quite unsightly an a serious mess . providing a habitat for leakage into the interior a great breeding zone for mold an mildew even mosquitoes due to some serious bubbles can contain quite a bit of water . ant also love these areas to provide a breeding room incubation area due to trapped heat an also many small plant seeds can rest in pockets an actually begin growing I personally have seen quite a bit . To alleviate such several things can be done actual hands on scraping can remove quite a bit it does tend to peel in sheets . get underneath an area an actually pull it off by hand if this tends to be way to much effort . Then pressure cleaning can be a great access to underneath an in reality it is recommended to really prepare the block for future priming an painting . A contrast in a situation where as there could possibly be a serious issue of water invasion into the wall an damage that could occur to valuable infrastructure properties where as an estate building of relative age an deterioration whereas interior plaster id deteriorated from exterior cracks etc. or possibly destroying an antique wood floor due to real serious leakage is a issue then Sand blasting would be the necessity and most idea situation . typically involving sand rather than water the intrusive issue of damage an water invasion is skipped over whereas sand is an issue in itself silica is severely deadly without proper breathing apparatus . it will overcome your breath within minutes an can cause serious damage to your lungs forever . also gets into your eyes an if you happen to get in the way of the nozzle it will pierce skin immediately sand also gets everywhere and etches glass . proper breathing apparatus is a necessity an not just a typical cheapo dust mask . a set of goggles and gas mask or a full style gas mask is recommended if a hooded fresh air set up is not available also a heavy coat or shield to protect your body and reality wear proper safety gloves high pressure sand blasting is serious stuff it literally explodes the surface paint coating etc. and can bounce back an cut uncovered skin . also creating dust clouds that are severely dangerous . proper safety areas must be roped or coned off warning sign must be placed out an a distance of usually 50 ft should be a typical separation from the actual work area where as common public wont be overcome by dust n debris . IT IS A SERIOUS ISSUE. And not to be taken lightly silicosis is forever . Sand blasting machines can be rented sand can be purchased through such suppliers by the pallet . I personally have gone through tons an tons of sand is the reason of my seriousness an relative safety experience. Typically though it is a way to strip off entirely all previous coating priming painting issues involved in all applications . concrete steel cement block brick etc. window an certain fragile areas such as glass electrical wiring can be separated and protected with a simple layer of duct tape. where a break line is involved a sheet of steel can be a useful shield . Metal paint spray shields can be found at paint retailers or supply houses w/t hand grips etc. waste sand and paint particles can be swept up vacuumed away blown away from work area . some construction sites it typically just becomes part of the landscape an is a natural environment certain issues may be discussed in advance before even beginning work related to sand blasting . proper restructuring of other contractor and personnel may be an issue and an advisement of rescheduling. due to the severity issue of dust and debris . Take my advice with a degree of seriousness and you will be fine . GOOD LUCK . Any other question if necessary your more than welcome to contact me on such issues . Cheers : Dirtdog

Monday, June 15, 2009

A question of - Is painting three walls one color, lets say dark blue, and the forth wall an off white, still in style ?

A question of - Is painting three walls one color, lets say dark blue, and the forth wall an off white, still in style ?

Answer -
The reality is that if it is what you wish it to be than so be it that .

As to being in style ?

The reality of class , culture an style rarely go out of focal point clarification .

If you are so concerned as if it is not right reverse it to the other color having a defining blue wall or two corresponding colors separate by the white as in the north n south wall blue .

The main judge is the effect of focal point in the room .

The blue will always direct your focal point of interest as to the white will disappear in the grandeur of the effect of the blue walls.

One note if the corner piece is the most effective focal you wish it to be then paint those two walls blue .

I hope my answer has helped a bit more in your thoughts .

live, love, enjoy life - never falter over expense or lighting you are the one who lives with it an looks at it forever till it changes .

Color is an expression of character personality an the effect of the variable .

The comfort is the reality of the fine line the trim the edge of the variable .

How the setting an placement of the objects in which decorates the space all guide the eyes in so many ways as one walks into the room.

Sunday, June 7, 2009


Can a formica counter top in a bathroon be painted and if yes, how?
Yes it can .
Theres a paint product called xim primer .

It can be tinted an slightly thinned follow directions properly.

use a quality brush due to xim drys very very quickly an due to paint drag will remove bristles from a cheap throw away brush .

First clean the counter sand lightly , just scruff it up a bit reclean off sanding dust do your edges and back splash first , cut in the edge against the back splash and around your sink .

Try to use full strokes away from sink to edges by the time you get the edges done an back splash you will get an understanding of its tacky drying time .

Follow through with the flow of paint continuous strokes don't stop in the middle of your work your paint line drys very very fast an becomes tacky quickly .

It is the most difficult to master full effect strokes but you'll get the understanding in the back splash an edges as you go .

get your first primer coat on an let sit n dry completely this primer can be sanded after a full dry . usually an hour or two ....

repeat read directions fully dust off sanding dust an repeat if first full coat of primer didn't cover completely.

Re sand an dust after drying fully an apply your finish coat of xim a 3rd coat will lay out well an with more ease than the first two.

good luck with it .

heres a link to help more with photos of the product an more details
400W ES White: Product Number 1144
heres a link : http://www.o-geepaint.com/ArchiCoats/XIM.shtml
and another helpful link : http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/ny/paints-stains-finishes/xim-bonding-primer-sealer-014380
Good luck hope this helps if you would like to see this in my original blog an other painting tips look here : http://paintingtips-dirtdog.blogspot.com/
Thanks for the question .
Have a great day n good luck : dirtdog

Saturday, June 6, 2009


Old Paint...
When we purchased our townhouse 15 years ago in Miami, the previous owners were kind enough and made a point of showing us several jars (mayonaise, jelly, Ragu etc.) of paint that matched various parts of the household. It's unknown how old they were 15 years ago. But they were well sealed and labeled.
So, in this economy, why buy new when used could be as good? Besides, I don't need a gallon nor even a pint with some applications.
Pitfalls of using 15+ year old paint ranging from flat to satin to glossy for door jams???


As long as the paint was sealed well an not deteriorated through it should be just fine for touch up although the paint on the walls could have aged and lost its color value a bit via sun bleached an also depending on if there ever was a smoker in the house or excessive cooking but if its a light color an not a dark color it should be just fine . just remember to shake well an pour out what you think you might use add a little water not very much an ounce of water to a half of a quart , will do . use a clean sponge or a small brush . I recommend a sponge on the flat surfaces even if it takes several blotches to cover after the first dries so much easier to blend a flat with blotches than strokes , with the satin the same clean sponge but i recommend a bit more water due to a full effect satin will over shine if not thinned out a bit satins are the most difficult especially in highly reflective area's tend to be much more noticeable where touched up. if its a small mark try to cover only the mark itself the smaller the touch up the less noticeable . where a rub that tends to bring up a reflection on satin small variable blotches over and around will fade it away some try not to do it all at once with the satin a thinned material will dry quickly so proceed through your touch ups an then look back an aplly another blotch or a few more if necessary . one other point sometimes a mark on the wall could be cleaned off using a clean white rag an water an old t shirt is perfect . never used windex on paint it will remove latex or damage the color. as for the gloss a lot of times it can be cleaned off easily always try to clean it a bit before trying to paint gloss same step just a clean white rag an just water oily finger print can be a messy situation though with water a drop of a light colored dish washing liquid also does wonders on cleaning the dirt or oily finger prints being it is water soluble it will lift the grease without damaging the glossy surfaces wipe off soap residue with a clean white damp cloth . before trying to touch up if cleaning didn't prove enough to rid the marks .
Now as to glossy surfaces that have been brushes such as door frames an trim or door panels etc . touch up areas tend to over shine with a much brighter shiny area it is recommended to at least try to paint the entire length of the piece following the same direction of brush strokes if your touch up tends to over shine in spots then wait to dry an just paint the entire piece complete . nicked edges can be touched up with just a drop or blotch just to the edge it may take several blotches multiple times to cover severely damaged dings an exposed wood several times always is much better than trying to cover entirely with a thick one time brushed coat glosses tend to drip or run as it is described a little goes a long way but tend not to cover dark marks easiliy so if the mark is still seen after the first coat just wait for it to dry an reapply a second an third coat as necessary . clean your brush between drying times or leave bristles in the paint or your brush may dry just as quickly as the paint does an be useless . remember even what they call cheap throw away brushes can be cleaned an reused several times especially in touch up effects . take your time enjoy what your doing don't make it a laborious job it should be easy , just be patient an allow each coat to dry effectively survey your work an apply a second coat to what is necessary . redeposit the unused paint back into whatever container you started with or if you have a new jar or smaller appropriate sized container transfer the contents to that container to keep a fresher useable container . baby food jar what ever that fit the needs of the remaining paint after all most paint will last for many many years if properly sealed I have seen entirely rusted over cans of paint a total wreck but when opened the interior of the can was pristine an the paint was perfectly clean an useable . good luck in your endeavors

Monday, March 30, 2009



How much should you charge to paint a single room ?

Is the question .

Significantly the intensity is in the details which by the way you left out .

Are there baseboards, trim , doors , widow frames , A chair rail , possibly crown moulding ?

The ceiling is there any detail ?

Are you just painting the walls what about the floor is there carpet that has to be protected ?

Or is it marble tile or a beautiful wood floor that just a drop of paint can ruin your day .

Your time is valuable ! Truly an creatively the details are a value to any job .

Also don't ever forget is there nail holes to be patched . And are the walls bare an in need of priming .

Also and as I have learned there is many more alternatives in the situation to consider do you have to buy the paint yourself an be sure there is enough or are they playing cheap an have already bought the paint .

The cheapest product may need a second coat even perhaps a third one to cover over a difficult color.

In which you have to allow for drying time an possibly coming back again and again until its dry in order to proceed to the next necessary item in the room due to the fact the wall connects to the trim an could possibly be a dramatically different color as well as could very well be a totally different kind of paint as in that wall paint may be a latex or acrylic and the trim paint may be a oil or varnish .

Yes the truth is in the details .

Quite frankly time is valuable an you may very well be being set up for a dramatic realization an a significant loss of money by not placing a certain value upon you time .

Be very cautious in doing so there is no certain formula to go by but in away to eliminate a total loss due to an overlooked error in judgement signify the details as much as possible in writing giving details to expenses or hours of conclusion in an estimate .

Specifically point out every single detail in order of completion in an outline of the tasks at hand an realise your ability and expertise is worth money .

Your knowledge is power an the use of appropriate tools can be a valuable commodity make use of it a be aware of crisis an pitfalls you know the what ifs the reality of running out of paint an having to retrieve it again a trip to the store takes time an several trips can take up to an entire day as well as carting around equipment ladders ,tarps ,brushes, buckets, rollers ,handles extension poles , tape paper the machine to handle it .
Even the tape n paper dispenser itself can be a expensive product but in all it greatly reduces the time to appropriately get it together an prepare the floor for the splatters of rolling the walls .

Cleaning up can an will be part of the expense an don't forget even the time it takes to write this article as a significant part of the job in creating the effect of detailed analysis an projected estimate can an will be a significant realisation in your customers mind in so which your customer will realise that "HEY" .
You " ACTUALLY " Really just might know what your doing .

As heard before the truth is in the details .

Wednesday, March 25, 2009


THE QUESTION OF REFINISHING AN STRIPPING AN OLD TRUNK ESPECIALLY VENEERED FURNITURE ........................................................................Veneer seems to be the most fragile of wood refinishing tasks . But effectively it's easy as long as the edges of the veneer is intact completely . The best paint n varnish remover . That I can recommend is called DADS STRIPPER ' PAINT N VARNISH REMOVER ... It comes in quarts and gallons although I recommend the quarts there is a small spray bottle Attached that comes with the can that can be filled with the stripper "use a plastic funnel " to fill wipe off spills on the bottle completely n attach spray nodule ! be very careful with this product . It is extremely caustic an will burn your skin effectively n be very painful . Have a wet rag handy ! the best part of DADS STRIPPER is that it is reduced by water and or mineral spirits ! the wet rag is for your hands arms etc to wipe off..... Don't use the water wet rag on the furniture use mineral spirits ! It will not raise the fine veneer as water will ! Lay out a tarp or news papers effectively around your work an under using several layers try 5 or 6 as the stripping process is very messy . work in a ventilated area . but away from weather ! your are going to need to let this project sit between stripping processes and drying time to refinish such project . I suggest to refinish the product upside down at first getting the bottom done an sides . first n second strip spray the stripper on the chest until wet completely let sit for a few minutes up to 15 min. use a rounded edge scraper the product will begin its process of swelling up the old paint - varnish you'll see it kinda wrinkle n get fat . gently scrap off old fat varnish ( scrap stuff into an coffee can or soup can ) wipe off your scraper with a rag an continue till you cant get anymore fat wrinkles off ..... its very messy but take your time .. don't get it on you an keep children n pets away ! then using a wet rag (mineral spirits ) wipe off excess varnish that has been loosened ! areas with details etc . a very soft brass wire brush can be used to agitate the fine detailed areas if there are any . if the first stripping process didn't get all the old varnish off . reapply spray until wet an let sit a few minutes again re scrap an rag off with a wet (mineral spirits rag) discard rags scraping debris into the can ! ( an old coffee can works best ) for trash ! as you proceed with such stripping methods until your wood seems as the varnish is completely removed ! lift trunk remove a layer of paper that is dirty . then replace truck back on fresh paper right side up or top up . having the bottom an edges done then begin on top an sides again the reverse direction of applying stripper to the sides will help an might not need as much stripping process as the top but it is helpful as to getting all the old varnish off completely . remember that the trunk could have been varnished multiple times so each coat is another stripping process . be gentle the wood will soften an be scratched deeply or gouged by the putty knife . once a desired stripping effect is achieved wipe off completely using dampened wet mineral spirits rags . throwing everything into a coffee can . you might need several cans or an old pail as there will be used quite a few rags an the paper n stripping excess fat sludge is all flammable . when done dispose of properly do not ... do not let the rags an paper sit in open sunlight or in a garage get it outside an into the garbage can away from your house .. this product reacts with it self an can become combustible ! all by itself ! this is serious ! do not use this product near any open flames or even near a hot water heater or any other pilot light ! the fumes can build up an ignite the air ! seriously ! dispose of properly ! once your chest is completely stripped an wipe off let sit to dry perhaps several days will be necessary . before applying varnish ! remember to take your time be careful with using any type of paint stripper an get fresh air if the fumes becomes to overwhelming to endure use a electric fan if necessary to push fumes away from your face an breathing areas ! i am very serious about these cautions i exhibit . take what I have to say seriously this is a voice from 30 years experience . !!!! have fun an enjoy your work . an please take your time in refinishing . if you have any further question don't hesitate to ask . here's a link to see this and other answers about painting an stripping as i post a blog for others to read n enjoy .
http://paintingtips-dirtdog.blogspot.com/ My E MAIL Address is veppsinc@aol.com for any further personal questions an answers directly . feel free to ask an be sure to write in subject line of e mail (as to painting stripping etc .) so that I wont glance over an delete it.......... THANK YOU

Sunday, January 4, 2009


How to fix corners where paint comes off ?

Well you question has no specifics generally how bad is it ?

further explanation may help but oh well I'LL JUMP IN AN ASUME THE WORST !

How bad is it ? If it's completly trashed . Take a picture an post it here .

What happened ? As above a picture would really help .

Did it effect the corner bead underneath the plaster - dry wall etc? If so there will be a verticle crack going up the wall about an inch an a half from the corner .

There is a drywall patching compound available called ultra light patching compound !

this is the quickest easiest patching compound it is very light weight soft paletable an easy to use . very small container can be purchased . " half pint "

Get a finger full like a dab of peanut butter it will stick to your finger well lightly smear the ultra light compound in the crack rubbing in circles. The crack will dissappear


Let dry . touch up after a few hours with paint by blotting over the affected area.

Is there dry wall compound missing ? Same as above but if a larger missing area . use a pallet , spatula or even get a compareable blob of the compound an press into the void by hand . remember to blow of all dust in the area first an pry away any loose particles before applying blob of compound smooth out area with your finger as best as possible till excess looks smooth around missing area dont build up higher than apparent area . alllow to dry a few hours may do you actually can wipe this material with a dampened cloth rag or even a paper towel to smooth out if there is any excess the may be a bit to unsightly .

remember your trying to match the coresponding areas . if so maybe blotting while compound is still wet to appear as texture or after first patch is dry an cured you can reapply a little more to match coresponding area's .?

Or is it just paint ? I f its just paint . get out your trusty paint bucket shake well an blot the area with a q tip , rag , or a small brush .

if you dont have paint but want to conseal it a bit -toothpaste white will at least cover it .

the area temporary " if a dark area underneath" the toothpaste will eventually dry an can be repainted later at least the unsightly area will be disguised a bit . . this is a last resort of necessity but not recomended as a complete repair .

if you have any further need of help i hope this covers the featured question but if you wish you can contact me direct at veppsinc@aol.com or you can contact me here also if you wish.
good luck an let me know how you feel of my reply . Was it informative ? Did it help is there any other want of question or reply ? . thank you ... THIS ARTICLE TRANFERED FROM MY POST IN YEDDA dirtdog from
" going insane " IN YEDDA ANSWERS